Mini Roto Tiller

Farm Implements - the Versatile Cultivator

The spring tyne cultivator has become a very handy implement on the farm. It is lightweight, easy to attach/remove from the tractor linkage points and easy to clean after use. It is designed for the control of light weed infestations and is not greatly impeded by rocks or stumps imbedded in the soil.

Multipurpose Cultivator

I have found other uses for the cultivator and now it serves as a platform for carting small quantities of water and also as a rake for the collection of mulch. This saves me the bother to remove the cultivator when a trailer is needed and also saves on money and storage space needed to house a wider range of implements.

The Cultivator Tynes

Sixteen tynes made of spring steel allows great flexibility should a hard obstacle be encountered. The tynes are also relatively easy and inexpensive to replace when they lose their flexibility with age.

The cultivator is not equipped to deal with very hard soil or situations that have a large amount of weed growth, for these situations a disc cultivator or plough may be needed.

Cultivator For Mulching

I have found this cultivator to be most useful when raking canola vegetation to be used as a mulch around young trees. Canola plants have a relatively shallow root system and are easily scraped from the soil surface. Mounds of canola plants are dragged to the required location and then spread as a thick mulch layer. The mulch layer will need a dressing of nitrogenous fertilizer as well as an application of lime in order to allow the rotting vegetation to more easily broken down by microorganisms, insects and earthworms. Badly needed humus will eventually improve the health and water holding capacity of the soil.

One Of My Best Hobby Farm Investment

I believe there are significant advantages when using a tyne cultivator if compared to implements such as a rotary hoe, as the soil is not pounded causing it to lose its structure. The relatively gentle slicing action of the cultivator as tynes pass through soil allows good control of weeds while there is a decreased likelihood of death or injury to our friends, the earthworms. Plant roots are severed and if not completely killed, certainly their growth is restricted.

The cultivator has become one of my best investments on the farm, costing about $1000 new, it has payed for itself within a few short months.

This article is taken from Alf's Hobby farm site at Hobby Farm. Alf also writes in details on farm machiney and implements covering Tillers and cultivators as well as Farm Tractors.

About the Author

Ben provides assistance and consultancy to real and virtual estate owners in Singapore, Malaysia and Australia.

Mini Roto Tiller


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Roto Tiller Fully
How to plant a cutting garden
Soaker hoses are outstanding for water conservation and for directly watering just the roots. If you prefer an island bed with a curvy edge, try using a hose, a long piece of rope, a can of spray paint, even a bag of flour to fashion the curves. Don't be afraid to till in lots of organic matter: compost, peat moss, peat humus, leftover straw (not hay) from last Halloween and aged/composted ...


weed wacker bike ride around block

Roto Tiller Fully


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Troy Bilt Tiller

Help with leaking Troy-bilt Horse seals?

Hello. I have a Troy-bilt Horse that was my Grandfather's. It had been stored outside for as long as I can remember, and seemed froze up. It was also leaking oil like crazy. After removing the belts, the engine turned over with decent compression. I replaced all the bearings and seals in the transmission, and did a tune-up on the Tecumseh and it now works great. My family has used it two seasons since. It is still leaking some oil at both the axles and the back of the tiller shaft. Is this normal or did I do something wrong? I cleaned the housings out with a nice white rag, then pressed the seals in; no silicone or anything. It doesn't leak as bad but it irritates me that I have to park it over cardboard. What did I miss?

Ordinary parafin wax, the kind that is used in home canning works well in sealing the shaft seals on most Roto tiller transmissions and small equipment such as what you have.

Go to grocery store and buy a few cakes of Parafin Wax, then take a kitchen cheese shredder and shred up about a cup of that parafin wax. Add that to the crankcase and that will after a one time usage seal off those end bearing in fine fashion for you.

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Leaf Blower Vacuum

How do I stop my collie from attacking anything with a motor?

I have a two year old female collie that goes crazy when anything with a motor is started up. The leaf blower, roto tiller and also tries to attack cars jumping and biting at whats making the noise. She does not seem to mind the vacuum cleaner but goes in another room when I am using it but she doesn't attack it. She actually jumps and bites at whomever is using the equipment. How do I stop this behavior?

Try chaining her up when you are outside, and let her get use to this. She will bark, and try to get loose, and may take awhile for her to be tied up. You may also put her in a fenced kennel and let her run around in it then, while you are outside, this way you will know she is safe. When you are vacuuming, let her go outside in the kennel, or put her in the bathroom with the door shut, so you can get your work done.

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'Physics Circus' at U of M mixes science and stagecraft
Collapsing steel drums with steam and shooting rolls of toilet paper with a leaf blower are just a few ways a group of scientists use to prove that physics isn't so complicated in show that they call the "Physics Circus."

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Roto Tiller
How should i reseed this lawn? rototiller?

I'm re-seeding my dads commercial property (just a long narrow stip along a sidewalk with a few trees). I can rent equiptment to do this. The lawn is far gone... It's in the ghetto, dumped on etc. About 1/3 of it is dead and about 40% of it is weeds. Some of it has tire ruts that i cant mow over because of the irregularities.

Heres what im thinking:
Rototill the bad spots. Just blast right over the alive and dead grass, hopefully even out a few of the irreqularities. Moisten the soil, throw down seed, and be done with it (and water properly of course). It doesnt have to be terribly pretty, its commercial and in a bad area. It just has to be better than what it is!
I've never used a roto-tiller before, nor seeded, so ide like to hear some advice.

Hey Glenn,

You could just fill in the ruts with some top soil. Be sure to scratch the surface of the dirt where you do plant, and you must water every day during germination. It would help if you continue to water after the seeds to start also.

You might consider dressing the top uniformly with some compost and top soil, that way you will get a uniform germination. Depending on where you live too, the type of grass you want is for high traffic, something that will resist wear and tear.

Anyway, here is a website from Clemson Master Gardeners of South Carolina. It gives severl options depending on where you live. It is worth reading about.

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Gardening business - how much to charge for tilling a plot?

I'm starting a small weekend gardening business. Basically, I come to your place and prepare a bed for flowers or veggies or whatever. I use a troy built roto tiller and can bring fertilizer/lime/organic to mix in if needed.

I was thinking of charging $50/hr - does this seem fair? Or should I come up with a flat rate?

I am in Ohio and I till. I do not get involved in chemicals, 'cuz I don't have soil tests. That's up to the customer. I charge $25.00 per hour, with a one hour minimum.

After last year's totally bombed harvest in my backyard garden, I am determined to improve the sandy, nutrient deficient dirt in my garden for the upcoming growing season. I've been gardening forever it seems, but apparently I've got a few things to brush up on and wanted to be sure it was done the all natural organic way.

So I thought if I want to turn my sandy soil into rich loam I had better do it right this time and I started with doing some research. To make a long story short, this is what I have found out; both of what I need to do and how to go about doing it.

  • Organic matter improves the texture of sandy soil by filling in the spaces between the tiny stones which in turn increases the water holding nutrient holding capacity of the soil allowing the dirt to hold both water and fertilizer for the plants so they can get to it instead of it running off or seeping too far down.
  • What is organic matter? Organic matter consists of plant materials like shredded leaves, grass clippings, horse, cow, sheep, goat and poultry manure, peat moss, pulled weeds, kitchen scraps like egg shells, vegetable peelings, coffee grounds (no meat or fish scraps though), sawdust, wood chips, and seaweed/kelp. FYI - most weed seeds will be killed off by the heat of the decomposition, but I'd still want to stay away from any invasive or noxious weeds (i.e.: bitter sweet, poison ivy, etc), just in case!  
  • It is best to build your organic matter up in a compost pile of some sort. This pile could be any where that you find to be out of the way but accessible to add to it and to be able to turn the materials over periodically to speed up the decomposition. Your pile could even be a fancy specially made bin that turns - that would really speed things up, turning your yard and kitchen wastes into magical dirt in a few weeks.
  • Compost doesn't smell if done properly. All organic matter should be composted first (already well rotted) before adding to the existing soil. Compost is called humus once it has turned into the rich colored dirt. It will improve the moisture retention, soil structure and fertility of your sandy soil.
  • How do I add the finished compost or humus to my garden? You can just place the humus on top of the existing soil like you would mulch at about 2"- 4"deep (this works well in already established perennial beds or around trees and shrubs) or perhaps scratching into the top layer of soil lightly or you can work it completely into the existing soil with a spade, fork or roto-tiller. You can even do both working it into the existing soil and then placing some on top as mulch. This will need to be done every year from now on.
  • Test the soil to find out the pH level of acidity and alkalinity. Most plants do well when the pH is between 6 and 7, which means that the soil is slightly acidic. A pH that is less than 7 means the soil is acidic - the lower the number the more acid it is. You will need to add some agricultural lime to make the soil sweeter or to make it less acid. A pH that is higher than 7 means that the soil is alkaline. If the number is very high you will need to add agricultural sulfur to reduce the pH level.
  • Here's a bit of info if adding fertilizer is desired. Complete fertilizer contains 3 major elements - nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). Nitrogen encourages leaf growth, and phosphorus and potassium assist in flowering and fruit production.

That's a lot of information, but I hope that it helps you out too and is easy enough to follow. After all, we put a lot of blood, sweat and tears into our gardens and have such high hopes for them that we deserve to have our visions come true to life. Good luck and happy organic gardening!

Please visit http://GuscleBerry.com/ for a variety of home, yard and garden decor and gifts, all at affordable prices along with bulk purchase wholesale discounts. Also visit http://MyFamilySafetyInfo.com/ to get valuable free personal and family safety tips.

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